My Favorite Looks from Paris Fashion Week
October 14, 2011 § Leave a comment
Comme des Garcons
Strip away the costume boning and you’re left with a delicate white dress fit for a lady. I love the roundedness of the lace top and the way the underlayer fades away like a distant memory. The tiered skirt recalls an upside down wedding cake and the irreverence of the wellies comes across as refreshingly unfeminine. This look’s commentary on the perils of marriage takes it beyond the mere pleasantries of luxury fashion toward thought-provoking art.
Kenzo’s new Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim revamped the fading French label with a youthful essence and accessibility. For this look, they took classic couture shapes and technique (like the pleated peplum) and infused it with a sportive edge, adding a club collar at the neck and styling the model with a kiddish baseball cap. They also got on board the bird-print trend we’ve seen since last season with a sand skirt covered in images of sparrows. The disparate elements of the look would clash in most collections, but somehow, they all came together in Leon and Lim’s eclectic, totally fun universe.
The Lanvin woman took on a new attitude this season, one that’s darker and a bit more mysterious than usual. This newfound attitude was apparent in a head-to-toe look covered in images of coiled snakes. The silhouette was soft and feminine, but the print had an aggression that imbued the look with an unmistakable power. I also loved the beading at the shoulders that recalled an intricate plate of armor.
Maison Martin Margiela
What makes Maison Martin Margiela’s collections so alluring is their ability to make big design impact with just simple shapes and modest fabrics. Here, the MMM design team made a shapely hourglass silhouette from just a black ribbed cardigan and floor-length skirt. The hem at the waist of the sweater creates a feminine proportion and transforms the portion of the sweater underneath it into shadows of a peplum. The sheen of the skirt adds a nice contrast to the matte quality of the top.
I love the whimsy in this look – textured lace, ruffled shoulders, a cascading stream of bird feathers. It’s Junya at his best. The swirls worked into the lace of the dress have a dynamism that brings to mind Roy Lichenstein’s “Drowning Girl” (1963), and this sense of movement is echoed in the soft waves in the jacket. I also love the simple plane of leather at the bodice; it’s like the calm in the middle of a storm.