The Best Trends from Paris Fashion Week
October 7, 2011 § Leave a comment
The ruffles trend continued into Paris this week; although designers ditched the fiesta flair from the Milan shows and replaced it with a quieter elegance. Alexander McQueen ruffled the hems of a floral jacket and paired it with wavy peplums, while Dries Van Noten and Givenchy took a more minimal approach, adding sinuous flaps of fabric to monochrome looks in black and creme.
A number of heavy hitters stripped away the excess of previous collections and presented pared-down looks that dazzled in their simplicity and innovation in form and proportion. Givenchy and Giambattista Valli showed a number of looks in silk and stretch cotton whose layering and subtle color contrast recalled the minimal, deconstructionist paintings of Kazimir Malevich. Lanvin’s take on the trend was 80s-inspired and reintroduced the 80s power silhouette through protuding shoulder pads and nipped waists.
Lace is a perennial spring/summer trend, but this time designers refreshed it with new shapes and color palettes. Junya Watanabe showed us an entire collection of dresses done in floral-shaped lace and worn over little black dresses; At Louis Vuitton we saw club collars and pencil skirts with magnified lace made from 60s-inspired daisies; and at Miu Miu, would-be cheery lace dresses took on a slightly sinister quality in their dark color palette of magenta and slate.
The textured floral trend carried over from the Milan shows, imbuing the Paris collections with a girlish levity. For its bride-as-prisoner collection, Commes des Garcons accented its restrictive white coats and dresses with soft white roses. Chanel showed us a floral top in shades of seashell pink, while Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen imagined a poppy trapeze dress covered in what looked like fiery carnations.
The sleeveless blazer emerged as this season’s must have item, showing up everywhere from Lanvin, to Givenchy, to Chloé. A number of them were styled over shirts buttoned to the top, and they varied in length, lapel style (club collars were a popular option), and number of buttons (often zero or just one).