My Favorite Looks from New York Fashion Week, Part 1
September 14, 2011 § Leave a comment
For the opening look of her latest collection, Doo.Ri elevated the white button-down shirt with some expert draping. The top of the ensemble remained fairly conventional, resembling a simple white shirt with wide collar, but as the shirt transformed into a dress toward the waist, Doo.Ri showed us some magic. From what I can tell, the skirt portion of the look was constructed by taking excess shirting from the back and looping around to the front; the skirt wasn’t attached with a separate piece of fabric as one might expect. This look doesn’t dazzle – it’s too minimal for that – but it wows in its innovation and quiet elegance.
I’m a sucker for a woman in a good pantsuit. I usually prefer more classic versions, usually in black or white, but the floral print suit at Prabal Gurung evokes a luridness and hard-edge that drew me in. I love the overall cleanliness of the look – acheived by sharp tailoring, a slight sheen in the fabric, and slick styling – but I also love the print itself. The grey swirls recall molten metal and the overall composition conjures a sinister Rorschach Test. It has a sweetness to it, but also sense of menace.
As I mentioned in my latest New York Fashion Week Review, I’m wild about the tropical prints that came down the runway at Altuzarra, featuring a collage of tropical birds and flora in saturated hues of red, green, pink, and blue. In this look, I love how Altuzarra limited the print to the margins – the bottom hem, sleeves, collar – and connected them with a multicolored knit bodice. The styling of the look is also notable. The belt adds a Jetsons-esque flair and the bold brow is a refreshing alternative to bleached-out brows of recent seasons. Also, don’t you love how the model looks like Andrej Pejic?
After seeing Raf Simon’s S/S 11 collection for Jil Sander, I can’t help but think any t-shirt/voluminous skirt combination grew from its influence. Here, Peter Som offers a stunning new take on the Sander look with a sheer, cobalt top and matching floral skirt with a high slit up the left leg. The look has an arresting sexiness to it – I can see her nipples and a healthy amount of leg – but it has an elegance, particularly in the fullness of the skirt, that eclipses any vulgarity it might evoke. I’d love to see this look (perhaps an opaque version) on the Red Carpet at some point.
Thakoon has an uncanny ability to incorporate several references into one look. Here, he combines bits of the Spaghetti Western, India, and Commes des Garcons styling to create a vivid, whimsical pant suit. I love the saturated colors he uses – pool blue, burnt umber, turquoise. Their vibrancy is so strong it seems as if the clothes are pulsating. I also love the updated, magnified paisley on the pants, jacket, and collar of the shirt. They give the look a joyful dynamism that bursts with energy.