The 5 Best Trends From Milan S/S 12
June 24, 2011 § Leave a comment
Most people wait until the end of the Paris shows to analyze trends, but there were so many that emerged in Milan that I figured I’d just start now. So without further ado, here are my 5 favorite trends from the Milan S/S 12 shows.
5. Head-to-Toe Striped Looks
Just when I was getting bored of stripes, designers in Milan served them in a new way – with even more stripes. Head-to-toe stripe looks were seen at Roberto Cavalli and Band of Outsiders (BoO), but they dominated the runway at Moncler Gamme Bleu, where almost half of the looks followed this trend. The stripes at BoO and Moncler were horizontal black and white, nodding to the perennial nautical trend and perhaps the Hamburglar as well. The hoodies weren’t anything special – you’ll probably find them at Uniqlo next summer in 8 colors– but the tailored items looked dazzling, bringing to mind images of sailboats in Saint Tropez. Roberto Cavalli sent railroad stripes down the runway in conventional navy as well as it’s signature cranberry. The overall effect was somewhat 70s, but with a gritty edge.
4. Space Dying
Space dyed knits can sometimes look dowdy, like you stole it from your grandpa’s closet, but for S/S 12, designers offered space dyed items infused with youth and contemporary appeal. Jil Sander, for example, showed a number of short-sleeved sweaters in mandarin, crimson, and forest green. They looked perfect for a tennis match in the Hamptons, but don’t tell Jil Sander’s goth-inspired designer Raf Simons – he wouldn’t be pleased. Missoni offered a wide range of space dyed items per usual – sweaters, cardigans, and shirts – but this season she used a tighter knit, giving them a weightless visual quality. Gucci’s space dyed sweaters in charcoal were the biggest and chunkiest of the season. Perhaps you should save them for winter, though. They might cause heat stroke.
For those of you who don’t know, scrollwork is the twisty, plant-like pattern often printed on silk. I had no idea what it was called until I Googled it last night – it originally sat in my notes under the label “gold thing.” I had once thought scrollwork was tacky, associating it with church ladies and rich men from Miami who unbuttoned their shirts to their belly buttons. But for some reason the print looks fresh and youthful this season. Its vine-like forms crawled around blazers at Etro. At Versace, it mixed with psychedelic zebra stripes for an explosion of contrasting shapes. But D&G embraced scrollwork the most, printing it on silk shirts, jackets, and shorts worn all at once.
2. Child-like Prints
Some of the prints from Milan got me thinking of how I might want to wallpaper my future child’s bedroom. Would a candy theme make them fat when they grow up? Would cartoon wrenches make them too masculine? At Prada, Z Zegna, and Burberry, the child-like prints of cartoon cars, tools, and what looked like abstracted candy wrappers tickled the imagination and brought a sense of playful nostalgia to the fashion season. “Lighten up,” they seemed to say, “It’s just fashion.”
Last night I was debating whether or not to buy an red, Engineered Garments floral shirt online. It was on sale, afterall. But then my boyfriend spoke: “You’d probably want to cover it with a sweater.” Enough said – it would make me look like Rose Parade float. It’s a shame, though, because the floral trend will be in full bloom next Spring. At Moschino, the flowers were red and blue Hibiscus and recalled a 60s vacation to Hawaii. Prada printed hot pink and neon green buds on everything from trousers to puffy jackets. At McQueen, the highlight piece was a dark, dense floral print blazer cut short at the waist and sleeves. The look was new for menswear, but it had clear influence from Balenciaga’s iconic F/W 08 show where he put floral print on a range of futuristic dresses.